The more difficult the journey, the more glorious the destination. That which we achieve too easily, we esteem too lightly. After a 14km long, winding detour through the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range, 12 staggering hairpin bends, one dramatic 270° turn where the road passes under itself, one trying test of your steely composure, and probably more than one or two moments that quite literally take your breath away, you’d hope that what awaits you as the mountains plummet into the Mediterranean would be worth the crazy drive.
Hidden at the foot of the immense cliffs, amidst the death-throes of the wild, rugged cost of northwest Mallorca is the quaint, tiny village of Sa Calobra. And it doesn’t disappoint. An impressive conjunction of not one, but two beaches, both with crystal clear turquoise waters, it’s off-the-track tranquillity in its purest form, and one of Mallorca’s most beautiful, and interesting, natural wonders. Two very different beaches, but both equally unique and remote. The first beach you’ll find is small and stony, set in front of a local restaurant and the village’s stone houses. It’s a bay of barely 30m. But if you follow the paved path to the right, you’ll come to a narrow tunnel carved through the rocks, through which you’ll find a path leading to the second beach, Torrent de Pareis. The landscape at the mouth of the torrent is the deepest canyon in Europe; narrow at the seafront, where the beach is wedged between the two rock faces of the gorge, it opens up to a larger section of stony beach by the stream further inland.
So, although access may be far from easy, the journey may be breath-taking, if not a little hairy, the challenge it poses only makes the promise of what awaits that bit sweeter, and the destination at the end that bit more breath-takingly beautiful than it already is.
For nothing worthwhile comes easy. And in retrospect, you’ll see that getting there was one of the greatest experiences in itself; awe-inspiring views as the road snakes ahead, a never-ending series of switchbacks and sweeping corners.
Where to stay?
While embracing all the narrow roads, torturous bends and somewhat adventurous journeys for this week’s #blackbooktravels, it’s the perfect opportunity to stay somewhere equally as secluded, with an equally as splendid end destination. Lying on a gentle hill, cradled between the rugged mountains of Serra de Tramuntana, the picturesque setting and off-the-track tranquillity afforded by idyllic @casxorc is an exceptional reward, a perfect haven, a unique retreat worth every ounce of effort to reach its elevated position. Here, it’s the scenery that stands out; a candlelit dining area with a 25ft farmhouse table, secluded spots in which to take in the authentic Mallorcan ambience, and 100-year old olive trees that lead the way to an infinity pool that seemingly drops off the cliff face into the valley below.
Old world charm meets modern luxury; this 18th-Century, ex-olive mill finca is as romantic as it is peaceful, and panoramic as it is understated. 13 private rooms are decorated in a rustic style with original features preserved during the property’s restoration, and boast unrivalled views, be it the flower-adorned patios, deep valley or majestic mountains, or the mystical Mediterranean. Ca’s Xorc, we are enchanted to meet you.